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The Kimberley area of Australia is often called 'the last frontier'. One of the harshest, most sparsely populated areas of Australia, it has unique and fascinating attractions such as the maze of rock formations at Purnululu National Park, Aboriginal painting rock galleries, untamed rivers seething with crocodiles, remote and mystical gorges with rarely-seen waterholes and waterfalls, and the delectable barramundi, a fish highly sought.
Every year visitors from every part of the world come to absorb the atmosphere, see the natural wonders for themselves and taste the barramundi fresh from the water.
Camping is one of the most common activities, but many people don't realise that under the Kimberley aura of ancient mystery, there are very real risks.
Crocodiles
Almost every river, waterhole and coastal ocean area in the top third of Australia is the home of crocodiles. These living dinosaurs would not look out of place in the movie Jurassic Park, and they have a fierce, well-earned reputation. Your first encounter with a croc may well be your last. In the 1980's eight people were confirmed taken by crocodiles.
Saltwater crocodiles are the primary risk in the Kimberley. They are extremely aggressive and grow up to 6m long. There have been unconfirmed reports of even bigger crocs.
Freshwater crocs are a different kind. They are smaller and less aggressive, but can still inflict nasty wounds if provoked. In general, freshwater crocs will leave people alone, whereas saltwater crocs just consider people to be part of the food chain.
'Freshwater crocs' (also known as Johnstone River crocs after the place they were first identified) inhabit primarily fresh water sources, but are also found in tidal areas.
'Saltwater crocs' or 'Estuarine crocs' (Crocodylus Porosus) mainly inhabit water sources that are at least partly salty, but it's not unusual for them to be found in fresh water, so DON'T assume that fresh water sources aren't home to saltwater crocs.
As a rule of thumb, if it's wet and it's in the Kimberley, it's got saltwater crocs in it.
When camping, ensure your campsite is at least 50m from any water source. Crocs can and do leave the water, and if you happen to be in the right (or wrong) place when a croc is looking for a meal, you may just appear at the top of the menu. Where possible, sleep in the back or on top of a vehicle - utilities and station wagons are great for this, and vehicles with roof racks can also be used. There have been documented cases of people being taken by crocs while sleeping on the ground.
Never, ever, EVER swim in rivers or waterholes under 300km from the coastline. Beaches in these areas are also a risk. Once inland, the risk of crocodiles drops, but it is not unknown for crocs to inhabit water bodies far inland.
DO NOT dispose of food scraps, or when fishing, fish scraps and entrails in nearby water sources. This will attract crocs.
Many people have said, "We camped at this spot, and there was a 'No Swimming' sign because of the crocs, but we didn't see any, so we went in."
The thing with crocs is that they hunt by stealth. Most of the rivers in the Kimberley are not clear water and so are ideal for concealing crocs. Also, even in clear water, you will rarely see a croc unless it surfaces. A hunting croc only surfaces to grab its prey, so it's not the croc you can see that is the one likely to grab you – it's the one you CAN'T see. Just because you can't see crocs doesn't mean that they aren't there.
Also, when swimming underwater, crocs do not disturb the surface of the water. Personal experience has shown me that in murky water, a croc cannot be seen until it breaks the surface. There are no ripples whatsoever. It's an eerie feeling to see a croc's snout rise out of completely still water.
Snakes
Snakes are the next biggest wildlife risk. The Kimberley is home to dozens of varieties of snakes, some of them among the most venomous in the world.
When walking, wear sturdy boots that cover at least up to your ankles. Feet and ankles the most common snake-bite area, mainly because people accidentally tread on snakes, who react by attacking the thing that has just landed on them.
Keep your eyes on the track where you are walking. If you see a snake, stop and remain still. If the snake is curled up and quiet you can usually detour around it, giving it a very wide berth.
If the snake is moving or looks like it intends to move, stay put. Keep quiet and do not move. Most snakes are not aggressive, and would rather flee than fight. If they feel threatened, however, they may attack a moving target, so even if the snake is moving toward you, STAY STILL. When the snake has moved a safe distance away, move off slowly and quietly.
Before going camping in the Kimberley, do a first aid course and make sure you are aware of the proper procedure to follow for snake bites.
Spiders
Unless an allergic reaction takes place, most spider bites are likely to cause only localised swelling and discomfort.
Exceptions are red-back spiders and mouse-spiders. Red backs are fat-bodied black spiders with a thick red or brownish stripe on the abdomen. Males are smaller and slimmer, usually with no identifiable stripe.
Redbacks are not aggressive, but when provoked they will bite. Their bite can kill a small child and make adults very ill, so always apply first aid and seek medical attention in case of redback bites.
Mouse spiders are not very common, but they are aggressive. They are up to about 3cm across including the legs, are inky black with a white or grayish stripe on the abdomen and they too can kill a small child and make adults ill. Apply first aid and seek medical attention if bitten.
Scorpions
Scorpions are found all over the Kimberley. They too rarely cause major problems, but the sting is extremely painful. They vary in size and colour, from 1cm to 12cm or more, and can be sandy coloured through to jet black. If stung, apply first aid and keep a watch for symptoms that may require medical attention, such as light-headedness, heart palpitations, nausea or other symptoms.
Speaking from personal experience, being stung by scorpions is high on the 'Not To Do' list. Even a 2cm scorpion inflicts a painful sting.
Other insects
Wasps and other insects may inflict stings, but unless there are allergic reactions the discomfort will be only local and last for a few hours. If an allergic reaction occurs, seek medical attention.
Mosquitoes may cause short term discomfort, but they commonly carry diseases such as Ross River Fever (a recurring fever causing severe lethargy for weeks at a time, plus severe aches and pains of the muscles and joints), so always use mosquito netting and insect repellent.
Flash floods
Flash floods are a very real risk in the Kimberley. Generally the middle part of the year is dry, but, although unusual, it has been known to rain at this time of year. Therefore NEVER camp in a creek or river bed.
Even if there is no rain in the immediate vicinity, storms miles away may dump water into the catchment area. The first you will know about it is when you get washed away by wall of water.
Aboriginal sites
While these aren't a safety risk, be aware of the significance of Aboriginal cultural sites and property. In many places you require written permission from the local Aboriginal landowners to be on their land. Other sites such as sacred sites prohibit outsiders' presence, and some prohibit the presence of a particular gender. Where you are unsure of the status of such sites, it's best to keep away.
Dehydration and heat stress
In the most popular time of year for camping (the Australian winter) the Kimberley is extremely dry. Although temperatures are cool by local standards, people from other areas will encounter temperatures that they usually only ever experience in high summer, and even then, rarely to such extremes. It is not uncommon for temperatures to reach over 30 degrees Celcius in the coldest part of winter.
Dehydration and heat stress are common. Ensure that (especially when walking) you carry plenty of water, and even if you don't feel thirsty, drink regularly. Wear a broad-brimmed hat and sunscreen, and long, cool clothing to protect your skin.
Bushfires
Bushfires are a yearly event, usually started by careless disposal of litter such as cigarette butts and glass bottles or careless maintenance of campfires. Plan out an escape route when setting up camp. If you find yourself in the path of a bushfire get as far away as possible from the area. If there is no time to get away, park your vehicle away from trees and other vegetation and take shelter in it. Keep your windows up and cover yourself with blankets (non-flammable) etc. to protect from radiant heat.
Always ensure that campfires are situated on a clear patch of ground (you may need to clear away grass etc), no bigger than absolutely necessary, closely monitored, and put out COMPLETELY when finished.
Do not discard litter, including cigarette butts. Put them out properly then put them with the rest of the litter for disposal when you return to civilisation.
Camping is a wonderful way to appreciate the Kimberley, and though it has it's risks, they are for the most part manageable. Take note of these tips and have a great trip!
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